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Post Hole

Post Hole
Post Hole

Square Sign Post – Flexible and Durable

Are you in the process of building a new facility for your business? Or, do you already own or manage a business, but are thinking of giving your parking area an upgrade? One of the most essential parts of an urban or rural parking situation is the proper use of parking signs. Regardless of whether you are trying to tell people they only have fifteen minutes when parked in front of the door, or that delivery drivers can only access the back docks during the early morning hours, you have to display the signs in a location where they are guaranteed to be seen. If you are thinking about installing new signs, a square sign post is your best bet.

If you’re not really the type of person that regularly has to install new signs and sign posts, you may not realize that there are different types of sign posts. But the truth is that the type of post you use will have a lot to do with the stability and durability of your post. If you operate a business in an urban area that frequently has changing parking rules, you probably don’t want to dig up your old signs and replace them with new posts every time the rules change. Using a square sign post makes it easy to add or switch out the signs without having to dig a new hole.

If you’ve never seen a square sign post before, you might have trouble imagining it in comparison to usual sign posts. With typical street and parking signs, you usually have a metal sign with holes drilled into the top and bottom. The post is typically a single piece of bent metal that has holes punched at frequent intervals from the top to the bottom. The posts are made this way so that the sign can be attached at any height along the pole. Usually the bottom of the pole is embedded in cement, and placed in the ground.

With a square sign post, you would use a very similar process to embed the posts in the ground. The only difference is that you only embed the bottom of the square post in the ground. This base part has four sides and is a little bit bigger in circumference than the rest of the post. This makes it easy to slide the post in and out of the base in the event that you have to change the sign.

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Champion America has helped thousands of businesses just like yours with innovative traffic sign, parking signs and safety products you can rely on. Wherever possible, we make or source American-made products because we believe in America. We believe that we can support our country and offer you the best for less

Anyone have any advice on building a fence and digging post holes?

I'm going to do this myself for the first time. I'm doing all the hard work such as digging post holes by hand. I've checked out a few books from the library that are really helpful but does anyone have any advice or know any great online resources I can use for help? I understand that getting the post holes right is the main concern when building a fence. I plan on taking my time with this project.

Questions I have at this point:

How far from the house do I dig the post holes?
How do I deal with a slight slope in my yard?(It goes up about a foot or two in the back right corner and then comes back down in the back left corner.
Any advice on the gate portion of the fence?
How long do I wait before treating the wood? I do plan on buying pre-treated wood but I would like to treat it again.

1) CHECK with your locality's code office about fences. Usually, side fences can be set on property line, back fences on property lines, front fences will have a setback requirement.
2) IF this is a big fence, strongly suggest going to rental center and renting a power Post Hole Digger....it will take 2 people to use it, but it makes short work of digging the holes....allow one afternoon to dig about 30 -40 holes.
3) Place holes at 8' centers! I prefer a 10" diameter hole...I want my fence to be very sturdy in the event of high wind. Dig holes at least 24" deep, 30" if in area of hard freezes...you do not want the posts coming out of the ground in freeze/thaw conditions.
4) Use Pressure Treated Post, CCA .4 DO NOT use further treatment...not necessary, these posts are good for at least 40 years underground...do not go for overkill...waste of money and time. Now, set posts into holes. Make sure you have at least 4" taller than the fence will be height wise. Use premixed concrete in bags, pour into hole dry. Fill hole to about 2" from top of soil. Use an accurate level, and plumb posts in both directions! "Water" the posts profusely to saturate the dry mix concrete. Make sure, after watering, the posts are still plumb. Allow to harden for one week, each day, saturate the ground around the post hole with water. AFter one week, the posts are ready to use.
5) USE Pressure treated 2X4's for the stringers...one at top, one at bottom, one in middle. Probably better to set 2X4's on 'edge' to prevent sag. Screw or nail into posts after trimming. These are the fence stringers. The stringers will follow the 'lay of the land..up, down, depending upon the grade. You cannot make a level fence around property unless the differences in grade are very minor. Hills, slopes, etc...follow the grade between the posts..there will be a happy medium to follow...your eye will tell you what to do.
6) After all the stringers are in place, apply fence boards, either inside or outside the stringers. IF you are a nice neighbor, the stringers will be inside. Set fence boards PLUMB...start with the first board, use a Level and screw in place...proceed about the fence, keep boards tight! (wood will shrink as it weathers, the seams will open some if you are in a dry area. IF the wood is really dry and you live in a high humidity area, be careful here..."age the fence boards" by leaving them exposed to the are for at least 1-2 weeks...they will swell to meet the moisture in the air. You will loose a few to warping, but considering the consequences of a too tight set in wetter area, this is a small loss. Try to keep fence tight, each board plumb, remove as much warp as you can as you go around the fence. USE SCREWS (deck screws, not regular screws). Nails will 'pop' over time, so do not use them!
Now, trim each post to about 3-4" higher than fence, cap each post with a metal or wood finial to make the fence sparkel. Stain with a wood sealant. Unstained wood will turn gray in a short time, but it will not turn gray evenly...A cedar tone is a good color. OR you can paint it if you like, just know that you will be painting for ever more if you apply one coat...paint does not hold up well on fences. Use either Cedar or PT lumber for the fencing...I prefer cedar, but redwood (expensive) can be used, not a great advantage over cedar..cedar will not rot above ground. Redwood available today is NOT what it used to be. IT is very soft, does rot in time.
I hope this helps.

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admin in Outdoor Power Equipment on March 04 2011 » 0 comments
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